Graham Beck MCC Chardonnay 14/277

96/100 Tim Atkin
 
A single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs from Block 14 on Graham Beck's Madeba estate in Robertson, planted to Clone 277 Chardonnay on deep limestone soils. Harvested by hand in 2020 and vinified across terracotta amphorae, Clayver ceramics, French oak and Austrian foudre — then aged five years on the lees before disgorgement without dosage.
 
The result is a wine of striking mineral tension: lemon zest, grapefruit and Granny Smith apple on the palate, with almond, subtle spice and a long, creamy finish driven by the limestone terroir rather than residual sugar.
 
Part of Graham Beck's limited Artisan Collection. Production is small; this is not a wine that reappears every vintage.